//Europa 2006//

Here's a smattering of pictures without explaination and in no particular order.

1. Graham at the Louvre

2. Matador Salvador Cortes in Pamplona, Spain
3. Some tower thing in Paris

4. American Cemetery at Omaha Beach

 

Well, I'm sitting here just a block away from our beloved mega super market stealing someone wireless while I enjoy a bar of white chocolate and jazz off my iPod. The first day here in San Sebastian was very sunny and hot, that was the first day. Yesterday if rained in the morning and was overcast nearly all day, and today is not much better. But as you all know we did go to the Bob Dylan concert last night on one of the beaches. BD is not one of my favorites but for free I guess you can't beat it. I did have the cheapest draft beer (Heineken, 2 euro) at the concert which I enjoyed on the other side of the river from all the crowds. These pictures are from here in San Sebastian and the concert except for the one in the stadium, that one is from the final world cup game that Will and Caleb went to in Paris.
Caleb and Will took the bus up to Pamplona to see the running of the bulls and maybe a bullfight. I'm here because it was a 6 euro one way fare and I'm running tight since a hostel that we had booket in Granada told me that they would charge me the first night because I had not canceled 48 hours in advance(?!?!?). As if they could not find someone to fill that bed, heaven know that if they were here in San Sebastian they would have at least 6 people that would kill to have that bed. We went to the train station this morning to see about getting the train to Pamplona and there were people scatterd everywhere in sleeping bags and the like who had not found a place to stay.
Yeah, so this little jaunt to spain turned out to be alot more then what Caleb was selling it on. Hopfully we can camp at this little place in Normandy tomarrow (if we get there) for 5 euro a night. I'll see if Caleb or will has anything when they get back, I sent my camera with Caleb so I hope there is more pictures.

--gb


 

There are certain seaside vacation spots that, despite their popularity, are pretty worthless.

San Sebastian is certainly not one of them.

It's been a long hard ride from our little swiss village to this balmy resort town, but we're definitly here. I believe Will's working up something about our adventure in transit and our various brushes with death, the law, and couchettes. I'll just describe where we are today and leave you in dreadful suspense about our obvious survival.

Some of you may know that we planned to enter Spain via Barcelona. 'Twas a grand idea, but we eventually found out that seats are booked untilthe 19th. Not much help. Our other obvious point of entry was the costal town of San Sebastian. Somehow, we arrived there (here) this morning. The place is hoppin' with vacationers and tourists galore and there was absolutely no room. Anywhere. The desperate telecommunications effort dirested toward a number of pensions (guest houses) was fruitless. So we did the only thing we could think of: stood at a tourist information center looking glum, sipping on nearly-empty water bottles, silently screaming that we needed a room. Miraculously, a short woman soon appeared out of the blue and started talking in spanish about a pension. For the first time of the trip, I could actually make sense of the fountain of words flowing at us and we followed the little old lady to a lovely room. The beds needed to be made so we helped our hostess who seemed pleased and remarked "Tienes una madre." (you have a mother) With our Home Economics workout complete, I took a shower. (I was going to say "much-needed" but that would have been a huge understatment. You see, i hadn't showered in 4 days. Will will tell the story.) We headed out to the grocery store and then to the overcrowded beach. The water was perfect, the sun was hot, the sand was, err... sandy. Thus began the reduction of our impressive farmer's tans. Afterwards, we relaxed in our plush room and Graham found a wireless network here. I swear that kid's life is in no small way connected to how much wireless he gets. He could live for years on just wireless access and Coke.

We eventually headed back out to walk the city and see the sites. Oh... by the way, I neglected to mention that there is a free Bob Dylan concert on the beach here tommorrow night. We saw the stage and a preliminary sound-check. We made a wide and beautiful arc, stopping only to get a spanish hamburger: with ham, fried onion, and a perfectly fried egg. Fountain Pepsi was a capital idea.

After I checked the boys into the room for the night, I took my guitar to a paradise-like park and played, sang and wrote some and shared the instrument with a Spanish guy who, whenever a female walked by, would drop the current song and play what he seemed to think was his best love song. I talked to two spanish girls who asked me for cigarette paper and they said that the last guy they asked turned out to be Bob Dylan. I couldn't help but think how old the fellow is when they said that he didn't have any paper. Bob Dylan? Without means to roll a cigarette? What happened? I played a full-length version of American Pie for a guy and some folks from Florida gathered around and we swapped songs awhile. Predictably, I had the most fun between 01:00 and 03:00.

I won't disclose the time right now. It's quite early and I rather believe sleep would behoove me. Just a wee bit. Maybe.

Cheers,
Caleb

Well, here we are in Gryon Switzerland, a small town in the french speaking part of the alps. The change from busy Italy is a huge relief and the weather is much more appealing. This morning it rained until about 8:30 and was a comfortable 14C. The air is very clear and the water tasted great. I knew there was something I liked about Switzerland. The mountains here are a little lower in elevation compared to the ones in Gimmelwald, therefore there are a lot more trees and actually roads with cars. After the rain cleared up this morning there was the mist rising from the hills that reminded me of the smokies.

The hostel that we found is very cozy and homely feeling. They have some good rules like taking your shoes off in the hostel, the upper two floors are quiet after 11pm (very nice compared to our room in Florence were there were loud trucks and scooters all night). This hostel is near perfect except for the lack of wireless internet, they're charging 1 frank for five minutes. Last night one of the people staying here gave us some bread and cheese and some other stuff for dinner and tonight we are have spaghetti with the whole hostel. There is a girl here that is from Asheville that we met last night. She is a grad student that teaches at Wester and works at the Grey Eagle in Swannanowhere. So it's a pretty small world I guess.

I think I am ready to be heading back to Ireland. We were talking to Will and it looks like he'll be spending less then 12 hours in Ireland, which is a same. We fly in at 8pm and he flies out at 6:30 the next morning. I'm also ready to be going home as well, its been a long month.

Until next time,

--gb

I'm not a huge fan of leaving things incomplete so I shall attempt to close the gap of 12+ days that exists in the blog. So beginning with the 20^th of June...

June 20^th --Today we took an amazing hike to a peak called Tanzboden, visible from every village around. Hiking in the Alps is not an easy ordeal. We wondered how we would get up a seemingly vertical cliff and were not terribly gratified when the trail was also seemingly vertical. The summit was unlike anything I've ever seen. It kind of made you wonder if it was even real. But I'm quite sure it was beyond words so I'll not try to describe it. After a lot more hiking and some genuine Swiss milkshakes, we got back to the barn and found out that instead of becoming tourists, we'd become a tourist attraction. I stepped out of a much-needed shower to find 20 Californians milling about the stalls, camcorders running, cameras sounding off their electronic shutter sounds. They asked things like “You really sleep here?” “Is it comfortable?” and “What do they do with the horses?”(It was a bovine barn) Go back to your four star hotels. Leave we animals in peace. We walked up to Murren to get a fine dinner. The prices scared Graham down the mountain but I feasted on real Swiss fondue. 'Twas quite the culinary experience. I brought my very own Ice Tea from the supermarket. It's cheaper than water here! I met a family at the restaurant and watched the World Cup match with them. Sweden v. England. The oldest son, a student at Brigham-Young, was an expert in the area of football. Somehow, he knew every player on every national team and he knew the club for which they played and he told us who should be substituted and then they were substituted. I learned a lot of forgettably important (importantly forgettable?) facts that night. When I got back, there was an intense discussion on in the barn. Some old hippie lady was spouting all kinds of things and talking about Hawaiian independence.

June 21^st --Let me interject that Esther, the lady who owns the barn, served us a great breakfast every day. Fresh, fresh milk, homemade cheese and bread, yogurt, cornflakes, tea, coffee, Swiss hot cocoa (not Swiss Miss) We took it easy today. A good thing to do in a small Alpine village. We met a New Zealander named Aaron this morning and let him borrow our lift ticket and lazed around and read and I walked to Murren for lunch in a little park I'd found. Aaron fixed lunch for Graham. There was a mass fly-killing spree while I was away and we had dinner with Aaron. We had only a water boiler for cooking so we set a ravioli can inside and made a double boiler and had quite a feast. We met a couple from Alaska and talked until the rain stopped and then hiked up to see the game. Not a very good match but fun nonetheless. A few people gathered around our little picnic table outside the barn and talked until it got quite late.

June 22^nd -- Breakfast was predictably excellent and all my clothes were predictably dirty and so I removed my guitar from its case and filled the case with laundry. That afternoon the US played Ghana so I went a few hours early to Murren and did my laundry. Graham joined me later. We had Nutella and crackers in the laundry room and read and went shopping during the drying cycle. The US game that we watched was not encouraging and many downcast Americans piled out of the bar atferwards. We ate dinner with Aaron again and shared the table with Casey and Shayle, our Alaskan friends, and a kid named Colin from William and Mary college. We talked late into the night and my Irish friend Andrew came over again and we sang some more songs and recommended some hikes to some new fellows and eventually hit the hay for the last time. Quite sad.

June 23^rd – This was our day to leave beautiful Gimmelwald and we made the most of it by taking another good hike with Aaron up to a waterfall and up further through some amazing pasture land. All Swiss cow have bells and so walking through an Alpine pasture sounds like walking through a big set of wind-chimes in a hurricane. It was lovely,majestic, amazing, and more than just picturesque. We had a good lunch and headed back to pack up and leave on the cable car/bus/train back to Interlaken. We checked back into our Interlaken hosteland found the “COOP” a franchised supermarket whose various locations kept us alive in Switzerland. We bought a few meals worth of food and ate dinner and went to a town's Jumbotron presentation of the Switzerland v. Korea game. Graham had purchased a Swiss shirt for this very occasion. The entire town was there and lovin' it. Evidently Switzerland was sort of a long shot for world cup qualification. But by winning the Korea game they advanced into the elimination games (1/8 finals, however you say that) and the Swiss were absolutely ecstatic. But the car horns sounding all night throughout the town didn't keep me awake..

June 24^th – We had to get to Salzburg today. We decided it couldn't be too hard but we left at 8:30 and didn't pull into the station in Salzburg 'til 19:45. The only problem with this was that we had no reservations anywhere in the city so we tried a couple places before we finally found the “Youth and Family Guesthouse”, a monstrous place that was more like an insane asylum or an orphanage than a hostel. Actually, lodging wasn't our only concern. You see our two-man group was about to pick up a third member. Will Lutz was on a plane from London due to arrive at the Salzburg airport at 21:20 and I had no idea how to get there. I left Graham with the bags to check in and ran back to the bus stop. I nearly missed the bus and paid for the 1.60 Euro ticket with a 50 Euro bill. I'm sure the driver appreciated that. I actually got to the airport in time and we headed back to the hostel via a different bus line. Well, with a different line came a different stop and thus, an unfamiliar place. I held Will's bag whilst he recorded the event (our being lost) on his camera. Well, I thought we were one stop away so I hopped on a likely bus but in conversing unintelligibly with the driver I decided it wasn't going where we needed to go. So I got off the bus. Will's luggage did not. This set into motion a somewhat frantic search. I got Will to the hostel and took a swig of water and headed out to catch the bus if it came around again. It never did. I was feeling pretty bad about the whole thing and thinking about how typical this sort of thing was for me and wondering why it had to be Will's luggage and the only thing that made it bearable was the slight romance of sitting at a deserted bus stop in a foreign city. At 00:41 I decided to head on back to the hostel/institution thing. I first stopped by an amazing Kebap stall and had what tasted like a bacon sandwich with special sauce. Man was that good.

25^th – Today was Sunday and after a surprisingly good breakfast (1^st breakfast w/ real meat) we decided to head towards a church in town that had advertised services on the board at the hostel. We strolled through the old town and past a million stores selling chocolate “Mozart Balls” and found ourselves at a beautiful old church with a small group of other Christians who seemed like regulars. We all loved the service and (only because we were in Salzburg) we were treated to selections of classical music at intervals. They even hosted a sit-down coffee and cake time after the service. Later, we walked around some gardens and to the bus station (lost and found closed) and back through the city and the old town and tents and street shows and found an abbey. We had authentic Austrian sausage for dinner and headed up to a fortress on a hill overlooking the city. The gate was open, the ticket booth closed, so we crept inside and found the place mostly deserted. The views from both sides of the castle were splendid and we got to watch a thunderstorm come down off the Alps. Salzburg is a beautiful city. We caught the last bit of the Portugal v. Netherlands match and pretty much scurried off to bed.

26^th – We took a morning train to a place called Bershtegasden (spl?) today (after an unsucessful attempt to locate Will's bag) and eventually got up high into the mountains that are, I suppose, considered the Bavarian Alps. We took buses up to Kelstienhaus, a mountain “house” given to Hitler by the Nazi party for his 50^th birthday. The place had stunning views of the country in all directions and we spent a little time clambering over the nearby rocky outcroppings and throwing the occasional snowball. We returned to Salzburg and I convinced the boys that they ought to experience a kebap sandwich so with Graham's monster 2.5 liter coke and our culinary delight
(i.e. The Kebap), we had a great meal. I went in to the hostel to ask for glasses of ice and a girl who worked there and with whom I'd shared our lost luggage problem caught me outside and told me that the police found Will's bag! Thank you Lord! I'm not sure who was more relieved, Will or myself. Graham was more excited to have glasses and ice for his Coke. Even so we continue to see God's mercy and grace on this amazing trip. Will and Graham watched the Sound of Music (our institution had a free showing every night at 20:00) and I went up towards the castle to play guitar. We somehow met down at the city's huge screen watching the Switzerland v. Ukraine game (a disappointing loss for the Swiss) and walked back for our last night at the institution.

27^th – Today we repacked, Will claimed his bag, Graham did something, Will and I walked the city once more, and we caught a train to Munich. I made reservations on a night train to Venice and we had something of a dinner on a bench at the station. I walked Munich a bit (nice city) and returned to the station. There was a great lightning storm on and after a little guitar, we boarded a southbound train. The ride was uncomfortable to say the least.

28^th – I believe I've already covered this day. (see previous post)

29^th-- We woke and had eggs and cheese and basil pesto scrambled for breakfast. First eggs I'd had all trip. That was pretty nice. We thought we were going to have to change rooms but a friendly note on our door told us otherwise. We headed to the local COOP and split up from there, agreeing to meet back at 15:00. As I believe I mentioned, part of my pilgrimage was finding free internet and being able to send somewhat full-sized emails and check things and make sure the world was still OK. And if not OK then as well as can be expected. I had fun (got turned around) in the labyrinthine Venetian alleys but somehow made it back just as the clock struck 3. Graham says he roved San Marcos square and found a South Carolina-esque park. With benches. Will walked across the city, read a good few chapters in the Screwtape Letters, gave to the poor, and had an enjoyable time losing his way in the maze of ancient pathways and alleys that we all call Venice. We went shopping for dinner and cooked up a little seafood (we don't know what it was) in butter and added copious amounts of spinach and had pasta and pesto and buttered bread and all in all it was quite a feast. We made our way back out into the city and caught a free concert. The choir was singing in Latin at first and then drifted into southern gospel stuff and then “What A Wonderful World”. The conductor was awesome. He wore the the full tux and tails get-up but also sang and played the trumpet and wore black cowboy boots. We continued to take in the Venetian evening as we strolled down by the grand canal and through the dark streets lit by the little lights of the Gondolas. I think we had gelato. We returned to the room and talked at length with a young ex-marine who was taking a 'round-the-world trip. It was good to actually talk to another American for a change, I realized how long it had been. To talk about travel and those Canadians. Ugh...Canadians. Don't get me wrong, I've met some great Canadians, but sometimes it's nice to vent about Canada and it's citizens as a whole. I'll explain later.

30^th – We had planned to head to Rome today. But Graham said it was too expensive. So he said we should go to Florence to a hostel that we had no reservations for and, i don't know, hope for the best. We tried to get there without having to pay a reservation fee (on the train) but our connection to Florence had a compulsory reservation policy (we found this out on the train). I got kicked out of my seat by rather large fellow who had reserved it and ended up actually falling asleep standing in the accordion-like coupling area between cars. Somehow, I dodged the conductors and the 5 Euro surcharge; Graham and Will (neither kicked from his seat) were not so lucky. We arrived in Firenze (I believe that's Florence in Italian, or else we're not were we think we are) in the afternoon and began searching for a room. The hostel Graham spoke of was fully booked and the second proved too pricey. After some searching, we found a third place, also booked solid. The one-star hotel up the street had only 2 spots and this left us with one option: a hostel far away from the city. We couldn't raise communication with them and so, for the first time on our trek, worn and tattered, a bit grungy, more than a bit flustered, and somewhat fatigued, we entered the sliding glass doors below those familiar Golden Arches. McDonald's has never been a place I've enjoyed (at least since I stopped getting Happy Meals) and is certainly not my idea of a safe haven, but that 1 euro menu was just calling our name. My hamburger and strawberry milkshake really hit the spot. Graham had the same with a chocolate milkshake and Will invested in an entire, opulent (not really) “McMenu Maxi”. We headed to the bus station and bought tickets to our last-chance hostel, hoping they had rooms, not necessarily wanting to try another town that night. As we made our way to the correct stop, a little Italian man with a city map in his hand was mumbling something at us. By now, we've pretty much learned to tune out such folks and keep walking but as we brushed past, we heard something about beds for 16 euro and that stopped me dead in my tracks upon the mention of a private room with private bath I spun around and faced the fellow, Angelo. He showed us his location on a map, better than any hostel. He explained that we'd have our own room for 3, with private bathroom. He told us he'd show us the way and we quickly followed him, using our purchased bus tickets to get to his door. Graham looked puzzeled and a bit cynical, Will looked relatively complacent with a hint of “wow, I might actually have a bed tonight” about him. We climbed to the 4^th floor (3^rd floor in Europe) and Angelo let us into his abode. I 'twas promising. We were still a bit skeptical but he showed us the room and gave me the keys for all the locks and told us we could pay whenever and left. 16 euro is cheaper than the cheapest hostel here and for our money we got a huge room with 3 big wardrobes and bathroom with a nice shower. Not to mention a rather picturesque view of the Florentine rooftops and our narrow street. We thanked God for his grace poured out on us once again and headed out to see the city and catch the football match, a big game, Italy v. Ukraine. We acended a beautiful hill and were treated to possibly the best view of Florence. The sun was beginning to show signs of sinking and the many domes and endless rooftops were beginning to catch the light. To add to this, we stumbled onto a bunch of attractive Italian girls who were handing out free Coke. Amazing. We were then ushered some foosball tables and encouraged by some more Italian chicks to play the game, also free. Soon enough, a third bevy of girls came by and handed us some free hats. We were a little disoriented by the whole thing. What was going on? So much free stuff. In Europe? I asked one of the girls but she didn't speak English and I don't speak Italian so we traded words like “coke” and “foosball” and I never found out the truth. We left our little free world, picking up some more coke on the way out and headed even further up the hill, finding the definitive best view of Florence and sitting awhile. We next ventured to Michaelangelo's Pizza a fine establishment overlooking the city, and split 2 pizzas. Not surprisingly, they were amazing. We caught the Italy match on two different big screens and witnessed the fanatic response of the Italians. Scooter horns were blaring in the city 'til dawn. We walked back to the private room and retired.

July 1^st – We headed to Rome today and had little trouble since all roads lead there. We witnessed the ancient city in all it's weed-infested glory. The Colosseum, the Forum, the Circus Maximus, Palatine Hill, Trevi Fountain (whatever that is), and a host of other important things. It reminded me of Latin class and I tried my hand at translating some monuments' inscriptions (with little success) And though Rome wasn't built in a day, we saw a lot of it in a day. The reserved Eurostar train back afforded good sleep and by the time we returned to the room at 23:00, I was more than ready to go again. I got no takers in the private suite so I headed out into the city, crossed a bunch of bridges, caught a live concert in the middle of one (bridge), explored some, had an excellent burrito, read, wrote, played, sang and definitely got to bed before 03:00.

2^nd – Today we took in Florence as much as possible. We slept in and lazed around and walked a little and used some coupons received at the football game to get buy-one-get-one Big Macs. I'd never had a Big Mac before, certainly not two of them, but they really were quite welcome. I may never have a Big Mac again, who knows? Graham and I got way off the tourist map looking for a supermarket and Will spent some time in the city. We rendezvoused on a bridge and after a trip back to the suite, we left again and tried to find my burrito place (it was closed). So after we closed down a supermarket, I ate Greek and the boys ate Mesopotamian and we caught the breathtaking dome of Florence at night and mosied to the station to check times and capped the night with another milkshake.

3^rd – Whew! Finally caught back up. I thought this moment would never come. Well, technically, it's July 4^th here now. Today we caught the 6:44 to Rome and walked a prodigious number of kilometers to the world's smallest country. Vatican City. We toured the awe-inspiring Basilica of St. Peter. This was an experience in itself and i ended up wishing I had my Catholic friends with me because 1.) it's probably more amazing if you're Catholic and I'd like any of the fine Asheville Catholics to see it and 2.) they might could explain some things to me. I'm not sure I understand the whole relic thing. Pieces of the “cross” and the supposed spear that pierced Jesus side. Or the pope that they had encased in wax and put on display. And of course there's the issue of the place being so darn elaborate and ornate; I don't know how many billions of dollars of material are in there, not to mention the art and artifacts. But then again, if you look at it without all the politics and see a building like that designed to give glory to God, you can understand everything a little better. We next toured the Vatican museum and after a long walk through many rooms, we got to experience the Sistine Chapel and Michaelangelo's masterful work inside. It was cool, but after about 2 rooms full of priceless treasure you become a little jaded by it. All the “amazing” art, stuff you've seen in pictures. I thought about the life of a famous sculpture: “Well yes, I've just spent two entire years of my life working on this naked stone man. It's quite an accomplishment.” Sorry. I heard the Vatican post office was a well oiled machine so while we were there I sent mail to the only two addresses I know by heart. I should have brought some addresses with me. Oh well. We trekked back across Rome, said goodbye to the Circus Maximus and the Colosseum and got some good Roman pizza to eat on the train. Again, the commute proved productive in the way of sleeping and reading and we walked on our tired legs to our amazing private room and had pesto and bread and chocolate and listened to music and generally relaxed and now my companions are long asleep and I might join them. I assure you it is still before 03:00.

Hopefully Graham will find a way to post this tomorrow. Maybe He'll do pictures too.

It will be a new experience to celebrate the 4^th of July outside the states. An experience that I look forward to.

We love all ya'll,

Caleb

and here we are with internet that we have to so europeanly have to buy. Why is there no such thing as a coffee shop with free wireless with the purchase of a cup of coffee. This is why America is better then most of the countrys here. And yes I do have a right to say that just because today is the 4th of July.
It feels so weird not being home for the fourth. Our planned celabration for tonight is a bottle of coke light and a pack of mentos, some cigars that I have yet to buy, and a watermelon. I miss the big parties and such I'm used to, but anyway, on to the pictures.

Shoot! I'm only allowed 5 pics at a time, there will be another post then.

We are in Venice. More personally, I am in the computer lab of a sleepy university in Venice using their internet connection. I don't think i'm supposed to be here but nobody has said anything. I reckon I'll keep it short for now but let me say that Venice is pretty much exactly what you've pictured all your life. Canals, Gondolas, maze-like streets. I keep saying that it would be the perfect place to be chased. By the law or some criminal warlord or zombies or women. whatever.

Yesterday we got off of an uncomfortable night train from Munich and found a good hostel and played with piegons in San Marcos square. The city exploration was great and sweaty (it's quite hot here) and we were mistaken for members of the Air Force on leave from Iraq. How? I don't know.

Will and I washed clothes. They dried quickly.

Our hostel has a kitchen so last night we made a huge Italian meal with lots of pasta and pesto and meat and bread and pesto and this great dish of tomatoes (pomadoros) and cheese and basil pesto. We came up with very profound theories about Basil Pesto, Butter, and Love.

After dinner we heard dueling orchestras and sampled the Italian Gelato. And an Italian Jazz Bar.

All in all a great place. Pity it's sinking into the sea.

Love to all,
Caleb

And so...

Here we are in the streamlined ½ mall, ½ train station in Zürich, Switzerland. Not a particularly charming place, but we've been a bit spoiled of late.

Just a note: the internet situation on the continent is not lending itself to web publication. Even if it was, the days are so full here that such endeavors might be considered too time consuming.

But today we've got layovers again and plenty of time to sit and run the laptop battery down. I don't know when this'll get posted but hopefully sooner than later.

Picking up where we left off in a nutshell sort of way, we:

(of june) Imperial War Museum was quite enjoyable. Tanks, Guns, Planes, you name it, all with intriguing stories behind them. The British Museum was somewhat overpowering. They pretty much took all the priceless artifacts from the entire commonwealth and stuck them in this museum. Lots of the usual clay pots, idols, mummies, sarcophagi, etc. highlighted by Tiki men and the occasional Thunderbird. That evening, we got standing room at the edge of the stage of Shakespeare's Globe theater. This was quite an experience that I wish I could expound on further. An excellent,excellent thespian production. (I'd never heard of the play: Coroilanus [spl?])
We crossed the English channel by ferry to Calais and had an interesting time making it to beautiful Brugge, Belgium. Our stop in Lille, France was fun, I went out to find supper and stumbled into a middle eastern kebab shack with a ton of dark-skinned fellows watching the Tunisia v. Saudi Arabia game. Though they were very quiet (unlike most European fans), the tension in that room was unlike anything else. I thought it was going to explode. It didn't, and I left with some pretty amazing frites (fries, I guess. French Fries even.) We met a potential Olympic athelete (plays with Club Lyon) on the train and a refreshing Canadian porter. (conductor really, but I call them porters so I can sing that Johnny Cash song [Hey Porter!]) Eventually, (i.e. 23:00) we made it to our hostel and it was hoppin' even then. We stumbled into our room, trying not to wake our bunkmates, and slept, with muffled German punk music reverberating softly up through the floor.
A day in Brugge was great. Good town, good breakfast, good belfry, good Indian students to share the ear-splitting top-of-belfry-at-12 0'clock experience, good fries for lunch, more good fries for dinner, good free walking tour that evening, good game, good courtyard to play guitar, good kitchen facilities, good etc. All those goods must be great.
This day began like any other, but changed dramatically. We got to see Brussels, Amsterdam, Hanover, Berlin (nice new station), and by midnight, we were on a Cologne-bound train. Lots of traveling, sleeping, reading, and writing. No lodging costs.
We got into Koln in the early morning and saw a bit of the city and checked out the Rhine ferry situation. We took an amazing train down to Koblenz. (you'd be surprised how refreshed you can get with just a toiletry kit and a shaking WC. (that would be the bathroom) We were in the last car and you could look out the back and see the rails flying out from under the wheels and the Rhine valley taking shape on either side and the sun rising, hot, over the rolling hills and I for one was just caught up with how wonderful (wanderful?) it all was and how good God is to little guys like me and how the day was going to be absolutely amazing. Graham was feeling pretty much exactly opposite, but after that he really couldn't do much to get me out of my good mood. I convinced him look out the back of the car. He even brushed his teeth.) We found the river and waited for our free ferry trip (covered by eurailpass) I got some breakfast in the town (bread and an apple. One apple because Graham doesn't eat fruit.) and some sleep on the dock. We boarded the boat for our scenic Rhine cruise and Graham fell immediately to sleep. Poor fellow. It was then that I realized that some people actually need sleep to function and don't like to spend the nights on trains. Imagine! It became quite obvious that our traveling styles are quite different and that our little deviation from the flight plan had Graham more than just out of sorts. I don't mind so much (that we have to stick to a plan); I'll follow the plan. But I'm still sticking to my guns when I say that Graham travels like an old woman. (though perhaps people will say this just means he is a normal person. You decide. I, of course, already have.) The cruise was long and afforded rest and scenery. Lots of castles and towns and some huge eagles and an amphibious land rover. We found a rail station in Mainz and headed into nearby Frankfurt, where we found a huge station. Graham was by now admitting that he was ceasing to function so I knew it was getting bad. I convinced him to leave the station and eat dinner on the street nearby. Now Germany is currently overcome and overpopulated with legions of football fans what with the world cup going on so it was a great experience eating out with everybody under a tent with a tiny TV broadcasting the game. And it was US v. Italy so we had some personal stock in the outcome. I was amazed that everybody there was decidedly pro US football. There was even an Iranian family in the front who couldn't get enough and argued with the official in the tube about all those red cards. Talking to many, uhh, open-minded Americans, I'd thought that everyone else in the world had some unbelievable grudge against the US but I'm finding out that it's just not true. As hard as it is to believe, people actually see you as a person around here. (unless they see you as a tourist, in which case it doesn't matter where you're from) Any sort of American stigma is easily smoothed by a simple attempt to be polite. A “danke” here, a “merci” there, a helping hand, an open door, throw in a “howdy” or two for good measure and, perhaps unbelievably, you can be both American and respected. But anyway...
Let's see, at 0:00, the beginning of the day, we we're in the Frankfurt station waiting for a 2:22 train. Graham was almost asleep, draped over our luggage, and I was playing guitar. I wrote most of a song before the train came and stopped me. We headed into Switzerland and, in the morning we changed trains for Interlaken, a rather touristic town in a beautiful valley between two lakes and in the arms of the Alps. A good Sunday morning train ride put us on the sleepy streets and we found our hostel. We checked our bags and had brunch on a little bench. Graham went back to the hostel and slept. I opted for another bench in a field. As I drifted off to sleep, I watched paragliders drift down from the mountains and touch down lightly on the far side of the grass. I awoke and did a little exploring and looked for a church but the services were over so I kept wandering and looking at the mountains and I thought “Man, with these absolutely majestic peaks to remind me so much of God's glory and power, a sermon just seems superfluous right now, especially since the sermon would be delivered in Swiss-German.” A mountain is one of those entities that needs no translation. So I walked a little further and came around to a knife store and was compelled to purchase a beautiful Swiss Army knife whose name “Tomahawk” I had engraved on the hilt. (This investment has already paid for itself 22 times since its purchase.) I checked back in at the hostel. Graham was asleep. Surprise, surprise. I asked him if he wanted to hike to the west lake (a good couple miles) but ended up going alone, Graham opting for sleep. 'Twas a priceless hike with a priceless view of the lake from atop a lonesome 13th century fortress. The rivers and lakes are amazing, glacial water features, intensely pure and intensely cold.
We fetched a wholesome bread and milk breakfast and hopped aboard a mountain train bound for a mountain bus stop bound for a crowded cable car bound for a tiny, Swiss-Alpine village. Gimmelwald. The hostel there was reserved for a group of 56 Arizona prep-school kids so we signed up to sleep in a barn owned by a lady named Esther. In the summer she moves the cows out and moves adventurous people in. We threw our stuff into a stall and sought a hiking map of the region. While we were seeking, we met a man at the lift station (cable car station) who'd received 3 free passes to the network of cable cars and trains in the area. He only needed two so he gladly offered one to us. Valued at 125 swiss francs, the card was unlimited and good 'til June 22. We took turns taking the lift to Shilthorn, a high peak above Gimmelwald and the neighboring village of Murren and home to a revolving restaurant that James Bond blew up somewhere along the line. The observation deck afforded views of countless Alps. Mountain goats and Ibex frolicked on the sheer cliffs below. We returned to Gimmelwald and had a nice dinner on an alpine bench and headed to the empty hostel. I sat there writing in the pool room with Johnny Cash playing on the stereo and the windows open, snow-capped mountains crowding in. I then proceeded to beat an Irish kid in a best-of-3 pool match and talked to a guy about Morocco and suddenly a flood of human beings came barging through the door and we retired to the barn. It was much less crowded. We met a Canadian fellow and some Singaporeans and ended up not hiking into Murren to see the game. Instead we played some music. The Canadian played guitar and an Irishman across the narrow street brought another guitar and some Dylan from his repertoire and we had a grand time swapping songs. Graham sang and played the spoons. A heavy-drinking Washingtonian with a Zoolanderesque voice came by and spouted intelligent theories on why 97% or rich girls are good looking. Somehow, we all got to bed (“hit the hay”). The hay was amazingly comfortable and only the hot Alpine sun was able to rouse me from slumber.


Now, this is not the end, but this much shall be published today. Let it be known that Will is now with us, safe and sound, and we are currently in Salzburg, Austria and are leaving on a night train for Venice.

We dearly love you all and hope to find communication much easier down south.
Until the next unscheduled check-in, Caleb